Jean arrived on the 4th...by car! She could not get a flight from Jo'burg. Cara Li who was in Ballito met her and brought her to Durban. I hadn't seen Cara Li since Cape Town with Ben McPherson so it was great to see them. Dinner in Simply Fish and lots of chat.
I had earlier in the day gone to visit a childrens' home to investigate placements for next year and found a brilliant possibility in Glenwood. We had a really interesting chat and they said they might take some students next year. It is run by the Diocese as so many similar organisations are. The Church plays such an active role here.
Next day we went to Sisco, bought some essentials and helped for a little time. Everyone was preparing for the Easter weekend. Easter is huge here. On Good Friday we went to a service as friends of Sisco. The "church" was an enormous marquee. There must have been 5000 zulus there. We were guests of honour and were ushered to the front. The service was unbelievable with over 20 pastors preaching in ever more dramatic fashion. At times they almost appeared trance like and the audience would stand and acclaim. How many Alleluias can one handle?? The singing from a huge choir was overwhelming. The volume ear aching and the combination of hugely overdramatic evangelising and blasting music left us transfixed. The Bishop referred to the Scottish guests a number of times, then we were ushered into the VIP tent! Another incredible experience for all of us.
Saturday brought disappointment when we went to Illovo for Bobbi Bear. No one turned up. We realised they must have gone to church. The evening brought a "Booze Cruise" round Durban harbour. Jenn and I jumped ship before it left, fearing it was going to get too crazy and that it was overcrowded. The outcome for the young Jabulanis was as expected. When they got back they rushed up to me in a panic. "Waldo you have to go quickly. Two of our friends have been arrested". I barely had time to put my underpants over my trousers before Ntuthuko and I and the three remaining friends were speeding down to the harbour. (They were a really nice group of Medics from Birmingham). On the way I phoned my police officer friend, Simphiwe. He said give them money! We arrived as a police van drew up with the two guys in the back. i did my incredible begging performance. Sorry, sorry, sorry.... Amazingly it worked and they were released. They were really upset. They had been holding a bottle of beer in their hand as they left the boat. The police were horrible as always making the Indian dance a "Hindu dance" and the English guy sing. How much corruption can there be? BUT I didn't have to pay.
Back at Tekweni everyone was joyful. The young guys said how scared they had been. Relief was felt by the rather inebriated crew.
On Sunday we went out to Emmanuel's in Umlazi for Easter Sunday. It was lovely. His family are od friends. We ate and sang and danced. Zulus know how to party.
Next day I set off with Ntuthuko to visit his family in the rural area near Kranskop. I was a little anxious, knowing there would be little English spoken but I was also so excited at the prospect. We loaded up with food and alcohol. It is customary to bear gifts.
Kranskop was what I imagine a small provincial SA town is like. Bustling, chaotic, black and friendly, although for the first time I was very conscious of being the strange "umlungu" as people stared at my hair. "Is it painted? We drove over the mountains and the countryside became stunnung. My vertigo kicked in big time but I managed not to scream too often and soon we were on the dirt track which would take us the last 15 kilometres or so.
We stopped to pick up Thando, Ntuthuko's son. He was not afraid of me as Ntuthuko had feared.
Arriving at his little homestead was magical. The family were all there (over thirty of them to start with). He had briefed me on the etiquette for greeting his mother and Gogo. The dad threw his arms around me. It was all so humbling. We had to take photos of the "gifts" and we sat to eat. All the childrens' eyes were on me. They were so beautiful. Is there such a thing as a badly behaved Zulu child? I doubt it as there is always some one to hold you or play with you ..such a tactile race. I once more was in awe of the warmth of the reception you are given. Everyone in the valley seemed to come to say welcome. Ntuthuko was beaming with joy.
The house consisted of a few buildings which were mostly in poor condition but scrupulously clean. I felt so content and so ashamed of our acquisitive Western culture. Money doesn't make us smile like these noble people. I was, of course treated like visiting "royalty" which I still find difficult but it is the convention and I have no right to question it. As each child knelt to greet me, Babomkhule. I felt an overwhelming desire to say they didn't have to but their faces told me they were joyful.
Ntuthuko, his father, brother and I then got in the car with whisky and beer to take alcoholic greetings to the valley, stopping every five minutes to offer a drink to whoever we met. Everyone knows everyone, of course, so we soon ran out. We were going to see Zuma's house. He comes from this area. By the time we returned to the house Themba (dad) was drunk and Philip (brother) also. Ntuthuko who was driving was also rather tipsy!
We called into a wedding. The men had slaughtered a cow and were eating it in a circle in the cow enclosure. The women were nowhere to be seen. I was invited into one of the rondavels to drink sorghum beer out of a traditional pot. The delightful young man who invited me said he hoped I would not be offended and would it be ethical for him to take a picture of me drinking out of the pot. Such self effacing courtesy!
Back home and then the serious drinking began. The men sat in a room and threw back whisky and beer. The young guys talked at me in Zulu which was bewildering but it didn't seem to matter. Then we danced and the women watched and laughed. I fortunately don't drink whisky so I stayed relatively sober.
I went to bed so happy with a glorious evening. Ntuthuko had told his family he had a white girlfriend ad that he was going to Edinburgh in August. They found this completely acceptable but asked that he would be allowed to return so afterwards he chatted and the Hyenas howled. Soon we were asleep. Life doesn't get much better. It doesn't matter that there is no electricity or water or toilet. It is all about ubuntu.
Next morning the children were taken to school by their important relative from Durban and they crammed into the car squealing with delight. I joined the men again, who immediately started drinking beer. It was 7.00a.m! We breakfasted together in the kitchen building after I had had my Zulu bath, and I was given my individual tray again. We took photographs, I put on my Zulu kilt, which they all loved, and Themba presented me with a shield and stick. We visited Shu-Shu a place of hot springs and then we set off for Durban. We had acquired two new passengers but it seemed perfectly natural. I dreaded the return drive on the hairpin bends and true enough it was terrifying.
After two hours we were back in noisy, frenetic Durban with enough memories to last a life time. I wish I had more time to say more and I wish I could understand the names used in family relationships: so many "small" fathers and brothers. I will value this experience forever. Ntuthuko is a truly remarkable young man. We are close mfwethus.
No comments:
Post a Comment