Alex
Tuesday 6th
Russell phoned me from Sisco and begged me to come down to the derelict building they have taken over to house the street kids after the flooding caused by the cyclone. Many of them live underground in the drains and were seriously affected by these torrents. I entered the derelict building and could not believe what I saw and heard.
This vast atrium was in complete darkness except for a few candles and the sound of singing was everywhere. From the gloom the gaunt faces of these lovely, lost children peered out. It was a post apocalyptic vision. I was in absolute shock but, as always the warmth of the welcome and the smiles quickly worked their spell. But I will never forget that first few moments.
I helped serve the simple bean stew that had been made, joined with them in their prayer and sang and danced. I find it so difficult when they thank God for their awful lives, but I respect their faith and silently stand with them.
Next day we head out to Place of Safety. Our classes at Zwelibanzi and Mangosuthu are cancelled because of a widespread strike and we have to rush back from Umlazi before 1.00 as we are warned that the taxis are striking and Durban will be "closed". In the city a huge demonstration is taking place. It all feels rather intimidating. In the evening we all go back to visit the street kids and invite our ForresterHS friends. We feed again and sing together. I feel privileged to be in the company of such amazing people. The SISCO workers are incredible, the street kids overwhelmingly distressing and impressive at the same time.
On the Thursday we had a quiet day and in the evening Mimo, Jane and I took Emmanuel and his parents out for a meal. The Makhathini family have always been a ver special part of the JGHS Project and they are now loyal to the Jabulani Project. Dulcie and Elijah are two of the loveliest people on the planet. They are so thrilled to be in a restaurant. We finish the evening in a Reggae club called Cool Runnings where we join in an amazing drumming circle.
On Saturday morning we head out as usual to Bobbi Bear. We are greeted by panic stricken faces and tears. Jackie tells us the devastating news that they are to be evicted.We cannot believe it. This project is so important and every face is full of pain but also hope thanks to Jackie and her team. She says they will continue....under the tree of empowerment. I cannot believe the resilience, commitment and optimism. We have to recover quickly as it is the football team's first game in their "Livingstone" strips courtesy of Gillespies(Isaac actually). The game is so much fun and Bobbi Bear win 4-1 to tumultuous acclaim.
Back to Durban to prepare for our trip to Burlington for Lucky's ceremony. We are excited but apprehensive.
Lucky arrives and we head out to his "shack" It is so lacking in any basic amenities. There is no water, electricity or toilet but it is spotless inside and strangely roomy. He was given furniture from a friend of his mother so it even feels "comfortable" He is so excited to have us there and we head down for a tour of Burlington and a visit to the site of his now demolished old house. The little township is screaming poverty and neglect but we are greeted by everyone and go to the local Tavern. Wow! We have a brilliant time. Everyone is fascinated that mlungus are here. We are hugged and celebrated and we feel touched by it all. We dance, of course, and I try some Xhosa dancing to loud cheers. We are in great spirits. The owner of the Tavern decides I will be her husband so we even get free drinks. As darkness descends Lucky wants us to leave. He is concerned that we feel safe and since there is no electricity he wants us back to his house.
We go back eat and drink a little and choose where we are going to sleep. Spooning is de rigeur! But we don't care. There is such a feeling of joy and expectation about the ceremony.
Lucky, Andile and their sister light the special herbs and say the special words. It is so moving.
We sleep at midnight for an hour then rise for the slaughter of the sheep. I am not entirely sure if I will handle this but Lucky insists that Baba is with him.As the sheep is pulled to where it will be slaughtered we all freeze. Some cannot look but I feel I have to. A number of young Zulu men hold the animal (all are very dunk on the potent Zulu beer) and suddenly the sheep cries and I hear the gurgle of blood. The young men quickly skin and chop the animal. Their skills are extraordinary.
Lucky must bathe in the contents of the stomach in a secluded place with his brother and sister and we all then grab another hour of sleep.
Lucky is so exhilarated. He has finally honoured his mother's death and communed with his ancestors. His life can now be freed from bad luck. He is so grateful to us for making this happen.
Next day we rise at 6.00 and start cooking. The sheep skin is placed on the roof and the horns prepared for hanging above the door. People start to arrive, including Mimo and Jane and drinking is soon in full swing. We all taste the Zulu beer, declaring it interesting but decline a full glass.
The mens'hut is soon rowdy. The womens' hut slightly more demure. We sit awkwardly between both but never feel unwelcome. The heavens open up again and we head home.
What a truly unbelievable experience. Thank you, Lucky Peko.
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